Swan Oyster Depot
“If I died eating at Swan’s counter,
I’d die a happy man.” Anthony Bourdain has professed his adoration and glee for
the magical ways the men and women at Swan Oyster Depot prepare and serve the
highest quality of seafood.
Sitting down at one of the 20 bar seats
available in the entire establishment I was instantly greeted with conversation
from a fellow eater, moments later my Anchor steam arrived. As my lips hit the
glass they were met with the texture of salt, yet no salt taste. The glass was
crisp with ice on the brim, and the sweet nectar that San Francisco has been
brewing since 1896 went down the gullet in a waterfall of refreshment. My
server, a late 50-60-year-old man with chest hair flooding out of his shirt,
looks at me with a smile and asks what I’d like. Going with one of the staples
at Swan Oyster I ordered the crab-back. Served with a dense loaf of bread, you
dip the bread in the magical mixture of crab fat, eggs, and meat that are in
the body of the crab. Each glob is a dip into the bottom of the ocean. The
fresh crustacean taste is evident as you get your first mouthful. The flavors
exponentially increase as you find yourself scraping the hollowed-out shell of
the crab that was just moving. It’s simple, use your hands and spoon the crab
combination with your bread and stuff your face. You’ll wish you had another by
the end of the experience.
Each course I ordered had brief
intermissions where I would drink my beverage, which glowed a bright amber as
the sun struck my glass through the window, and talked to the people to the
right and/or the left of me. The second dish was an amazing combination seafood
cocktail with a plethora of seafood. Succulent crab, titanic prawn, tiny shrimp
swimming in cocktail sauce, and a couple enormous oysters to top of this mound
of the ocean’s bounty. I took note my beer was almost finished at this point, I
look down to take a bite, look up and it is truly a beautiful sight, a glass
filled to the brim of some good ole Anchor steam. This is an exemplary example
of the unspoken bond between server and customer in which can only be witnessed
at places with great service and attitude. After an intense search and devour
mission for the tiny shrimp swimming in the cocktail sauce, my satisfaction
meter is steadily increasing. To break the meter, I ordered a dozen freshly
chucked oysters. As the tray arrived my taste bud companion a.k.a. my server
explained the three types of oysters my stomach will soon make acquaintance
with. Miyagi, Kumamoto, and Blue Point oysters ranging from Seattle to Humboldt
Bay. I reached for the oyster from Humboldt, and was immediately met with a
warning from one of the fellow diners. He said, “Look out for the oysters from
Humboldt, they’re very potent.” To be quite honest I was worried and confused,
but he explained his joke about the oyster’s home being in the infamous Emerald
Triangle. Grab a lemon wedge from the counter, squeeze some on top, a little
horseradish, and a dab of Tabasco and it’s down the hatch. Each oyster had
their own characteristic. The Miyagis, small, sweet and succulent. The Kumamoto
was meaty, briny, and had a lot of body. Finally, the Blue Point oysters tasted
of a balance of sweet and salty, with an aftertaste of bliss.
Swan Oyster Depot has been in San
Francisco since 1946, and have been doing the same thing since then. No
bullshit, no thrills (unless you are a seafood fanatic), just good seafood,
with quality service. Due to the nature of the OGness of the restaurant there
is no website, no reservations either. It is first come, first serve, and on
busier days you may find yourself in line. So bring some cash (IT’S CASH ONLY),
kick it in line with your homies, grab a couple (or more) Anchor steams, and
stuff your face with seafood until you cannot stuff your face with seafood. This
establishment does everything a restaurant should be, a place where the staff
cares for the customer’s well-being, and they supply a space where people of
all walks of life can sit down and break bread (or crab shells) with each other
and converse.
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